Oh man, I had the biggest smirk on my face reading this. lol. Thanks.
I'm talking about adding the radius of the device itself to the measurement total. Helpful for if you wanted to measure a line, starting in a corner (An inside-corner is impossible to reach when you have a circle to start with).
Did this work for you? (I didn't notice an update). I know I'm 5 years late, but I'm convinced automotive or HVAC filters are the key. If you want to see my filtered approach, check out my latest Instructable.
Very interesting and well executed!If you wanted to measure from an inside corner, you could program in a "corner" button to tack on a Radius value before you start rolling, and then again if you are ending on another inside corner.
I may look into some sort of dust-stop for the back, but for now I'm going on the basis that positive pressure will stop it when it is ON and active, and the amount of dust accumulation when OFF would be minimal in comparison. My computer is ON when I'm working in my shop. The fans are already the high-static pressure variant.
Yeah, I definitely over-built this. It was replacing a 12 year old computer though, so I tend to over-build, then get my money's worth until it truly dies.
Perhaps I should look into keeping fans at 10% even in sleep mode. Or maybe a second air filter. I'll check in a few months and see, but I'd be willing to bet the primary filter is doing gobs more work than any conventional dust filter could.
I may experiment with a paper filter (it's a simple swap), but the more I read about the K&N oil issue, the less I'm concerned about it. I don't think these awesome computer fans can pull nearly the same volume of air that is required from a Dodge Viper at redline. So it seems impossible for the oil to be pulled. Another mentioned that heat was a contributor for oil-leak, which for my application is no where near the heat of an engine-bay. K&N claims a Merv-11 equivalent. But it definitely breaths more than a paper filter, so there may be some questionable claims there.
Dustproof ComputerView Instructable »
I just checked my DigiKey order history, and it looks like I have substituted that inductor part in the past with 732-3082-ND. So my best guess would be: Yes. I think that part you linked-to will suffice. As for the missing RED led from the BOM: Thanks for letting me know. It's been years since I wrote that BOM, and as far as I know only you and one other guy have ever used it. So for that reason I'm not sure that I'll ever get around to updating or fixing it. Hopefully I got everything else right. Regarding the PCBs: You can reach out to me through my website.
Kids Car Plywood Laser Cut Tot Rod
Thanks. The puzzle joints are only necessary if your cutting zone isn't large enough to cut the full pieces. Yes, if your able to cut from a full 8'x4' sheet of plywood, then there is no need to cut the puzzle-joints. 3 full sheets of plywood are required.
A small bilge pump does the trick. Yes. My dad intentionally flipped his boat during testing. See the "stability testing" video on my website. The only time I've capsized was when I tried to surf a 4-foot wave. Unfortunately I don't have any video footage of that awesome wipe-out.
I'm not sure. It's a very small flat-bottom boat designed for cruising at slow trolling-motor speeds. For that reason I wouldn't bother with a jet drive if the goal is to increase speed. A jet-drive may be a viable option if the goal is to reduce the draft.
Sorry, but I only offer the 2D drawings for sale through my website.
Yep. I offer full-scale PDF files as part of the plans, which can be printed large-format and/or tiled together if you want to print it traditionally onto paper and transfer it to wood that way.
Awesome project guys. Thanks for sharing.I was wondering though: For the floor panels, why use a hardware cloth instead of just sheathing the bottom side as well?
Building a Wood-Framed Panelized Yurt
Very awesome! Well done.
Nope. But the windshield actually does a pretty good job of blocking the wind.
I imagine you could. Stitch-and-glue is just a matter of getting the right shapes and stitching them together. How you cut those shapes is up to you. The only thing I would suggest if you go that route is to drill holes and use copper wire for the stitching rather than trying to cut square slots for cable-ties.
I understand what you are requesting, but as currently designed: The umpire would just have to sit on the opposite side of the scoreboard with both wireless buttons acting as a remote control. That way the umpire and players are all looking at the same scoreboard.The beauty of this scoreboard though is that it doesn't require an umpire. If you have an umpire, just hand him the wireless buttons (they last for years on a single coin-cell battery). If you don't have an umpire, just attach the buttons to the table for the players to hit.As for reverting a mistake, that is already implemented into the code. Just hold down either player button and the game is reverted to the previous score.Hope that makes sense.
I believe that info is listed in the Bill of Materials.
Very cool. I wouldn't have guessed that a wood press would be so effective pressing into wood.
The largest piece to laser-cut fills my 900mm x 600mm cutting zone exactly. If you have a smaller laser then you have 2 options:Option #1: Break down the larger parts to fit, which means using even more puzzle-joints or Option #2: Just cut the large pieces by hand (with a jig-saw or similar) and then cut the smaller pieces with a laser.
This is awesome! The containers themselves are stack-able, but having them be slide-able makes a lot of sense. Well done.
I've seen people rip-off non-Instructable work, which is bad enough. But this is a new low for sure. If there is a way to report a project I would suggest you do so, you could also just reach out to "troy" from instructables (email@example.com)
Very cool. How much is DeWalt paying you for this? ;-)
6 oz cloth and 9 ox strip (aka: tape). All mentioned in the bill of materials which can be found on my website: http://rapidwhale.com/mini-boat.phpJust one layer of cloth covered in a few coats of epoxy and varnish (or paint) on top of that.
That depends on how much battery capacity you are packing. For my QTY: 2, 35AH 12V batteries, I get just over 2 hours of full-speed (~4MPH) run-time. In actuality, I'm usually out for 4 hours on each trip because I'm not always under power.
Thanks. It takes about 3-4 hardcore weekends to build one. Info on purchasing plans or kits can be found on my website.
It's impressive what you are able to do with a laser.I love all of your tank designs, and I think the exposed tracks of this tank make it my favorite. If it's remote-controlled, you should definitely link to some video-footage of it. Or perhaps the inclusion of the controller in the photo is to show that it can be made to be remote controlled?
Hey Chris, thanks for the interest.When it comes to boat building, I don't think there is a more beginner friendly construction method out there than what is commonly called "stitch and glue". Stitch and glue construction is made even easier when you replace the copper wire that is generally used for the "stitching" with zip-ties, which is what I did for these boats.If you are interested in building a boat, this boat (or at least this construction method) is the way to go. My friends and I built 3 boats in total, and had zero boat-building experience. Stitch it. Glue it. Float it.P.s. Be sure to cycle through all 160+ images in this instructable, because that will give you the best idea of what it takes to build one.
I cut these on a laser that has a 900mm x 600mm cutting zone.
Thanks. I have no plans to design another boat at the moment. Maybe a submersible, some time in the distant future.
Something like 1600 lbs worth, but very slowly. Lol
A leisurely kayak speed: ~4MPH.You can get an idea of that speed in some of the videos.
Just emailed this to my wife. She's the baker, I'm the dish washer. I'm totally gettin' orange bread tonight! Thanks.
Thanks. Now the seed has been planted. Next thing you know you will be building your own in a few years. At least that was the case for me when I first saw one.
Mini BoatView Instructable »
I agree with AMbros, this desk looks other-worldly. Nice job.
very cool! Be sure to post a video of it if you get a chance.
love it. Would make for an awesome scavenger hunt gift.
Arduino Geocache Locator
Looks like the original creators (?) are now on Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1270317155/a-world-war-ii-icon-danish-fuel-bar-cabinet?ref=discovery
That makes sense.
You could convert from 8-way to 4-way joysticks, non-mechanically if you just run everything through a micro-controller and render the 4 corner switches useless in code. Not sure if that would be what you were after though...
That's cool that you are able to adjust the power (resistance) just by moving the position of the alligator clamp. I never knew hot wire cutters were so dead-simple.
actually, I take it back... the radius is just way too small for you to have any success partial kerf-cutting with a router. You would just wanna make the corners separate.
If you had a small enough end-mill, then you can probably get away with most of the existing CAD, but you may still need to tweak a little of it it to make up for your end-mills radius in corners. I bet you could do the kerf cuts with a small, steep-angle cutting bit, such that you are cutting what will be the inside of the radiused corner.
It helps to own one that is set up in your living room and written off as a business expense. ;-)
lol. Maybe it could add in a new element of trying to sneak in a button press when the other player isn't looking (or listening if you have the "beep" function turned on). ;-)
Dang. This thing is intense! Make enough of them and you might have to open your own Arcade (or bar).
Thanks. The photo-bombing came naturally, as a result of being so happy to have finally finished the documentation. I had to build two of these, because I didn't document the first one. Doh!
They could be, but 3D printing isn't great for large flat shapes; laser-cutting is.
You press a button, which is attached to the table. Code prevents accidental multi-presses, or both players pressing it at the same time. Hold down a button to "undo" and revert to the previous score.
Thanks. It was a struggle coming up with a display that didn't suck so much power. Typical 7-segment displays of this size would be 40W each digit, this one is 4W, allowing the whole thing to be easily battery powered.
That's pretty awesome.I like how the different layers of paper are used to get varying levels of diffusion / light-bleed. I could see this being an off-the-shelf product if it were overly simplified to the point where all someone was required to do is design the monster!
Table Tennis ScoreboardView Instructable »
Arduino Car Display
Giant Laser Cut Bulbasaur
Very awesome! I had no idea 123D could convert 3D polygon shapes into 2D shapes. That something I dont even think my $5,500 seat in Solidworks can do.
cool. Thanks for pisting the pic.
Perhaps I should have mentioned it in the instructions, but you need to lift your pants up, then twist the Tug Belt on.
hum, it's supposed to curve with your waist, but not fold in half.Credit card material (PVCA) breaks easily if it is bent too-much so I wouldn't expect yours to last very long if it is folding. I'd suggest trying to find a thicker or stiffer credit-card, perhaps glue two together if your credit cards aren't strong enough. Best of luck.
Hey Jasper. Thanks for making one dude.I've tried it on a variety of adult pants and it worked with all of them, so if you can explain why it didn't work with your jeans I might be able to help you.Also: It's not the most intuitive installation, so be sure to follow the diagram directions to insure you are using it properly.Thanks, and looking forward to your response.
Very cool.Excellent documentation, and your UStepper is an awesome concept. I take it the heat from the stepper during use is not a problem?
UStepper Robot Arm
Just hit 100 "Favorites". So awesome.Thanks guys.
You could also zip-tie two belt loops together.A one-time use solution with a zip-tie though, but might be faster than tying a knot.
Thanks!Those line-drawing graphics are made by tracing photos in Adobe Illustrator. "Use Map" is the official Industrial Design term if I remember correctly.
Glad you guys are diggin' it. Thanks.
Thanks.I'm starting to get better at writing instructions, but they are still taking me more time than I would like (this one was 6 hours to document).They stay on your pants quite well, even if you take your pants off. That being said, I haven't run a Tug Belt through the wash yet, but I imagine the Delrin would hold up. Not sure about the credit card material, perhaps you could build one and test that for me.;-)
Tug Belt - a Minimalist Belt That Fits in Your WalletView Instructable »
very awesome.I love the clicking mechanism. Very clever solution. I'll have to keep that "live-spring" concept in mind for future projects.Seems like the inner tube really cuts-down on your storage size. I imagine it could be made as just a lid, but then it would require a good shake or two to get a scroll out. I wonder if there would be a way to make the passcode user-adjustable...Thanks for sharing.
oops, just realized the inner tube is part of the locking feature. So can't really due without it. My mistake.
nice work. That paint marker design really makes it look like a finished product.You could save slightly on material cost if you are willing to cut the rings as half-rings. (twice as many parts to glue, but half-rings allow you to nest the parts a lot closer... and I know colored Acrylic isn't cheap)
My wife had me pick up bananas to make this. Apparently 13 bananas was 10 too many. Pic attached. Thanks.
Thanks Jen.I'm sending my wife your Banana Bread instructions right away. She does all the cooking and I do all the dish cleaning.