Palingenesis

Thank you

Thankyou.

I love it.I like the way you have put the belt through the tube.

I Make projects to to prove a concept for my self, and I do them on a budget you could say. I have used cheap 49E sensors and an Arduino NANO.As it stands my device is good for images and drawings that don't need to be too precise. For scaling up a model I think betters sensors and a micro processor with better DAC is required.Having said that, you asked: "would be possible to replace the Y-axis sensor with an angle sensor"The two sensors are angular/rotary sensors. They work together to produce the X and Y.However, I am currently working on part three [3D].The 3D version is a learning curve for me, so it may be a while. Its already going through a few iterations.

I have heard many excuses to get source code, this one is not new.If you would like help with your code please show it and I will try to help.It is all on the Arduino site if you put in time to look and learn.Everything is here to make it.

Glad you like it.I haven't tried it with other plastics.Let us know how it goes. I'm interested on how the colour goes.

Glad you like it.This could easaly be scaled up, but you pay for what you get is a factor.I have shown the principles, but, here I am using very cheap sensors.As you scale the mechanics, the accuracy of the sensors reading the angles needs to be better.That reminds me, I should change my software to scale down also. :)I could make the software save it as an image, as you say, once it is digital, you can do anything with it. (I may do something when I have part three finished)

But you cant use the jumpers that way.You can't swop and change.It is a permanent setting that way.If you use jumpers that way you will short the board out.Need to make sure people who are novice realize this.

Looks OK to me. :)Thank you for showing.Seeing an Instructable being used makes my day a better one.

I am glad you like it.Thankyou for leaving a comment.

Looks cool

Thank you Judges.With my winnings I was able to buy my self a Temperature Gun.I got the TARCHER Infrared Thermometer IR02B, -58℉~1472℉(-50℃~800℃)I can now check my hot plate for accuracy :)

Thankyou so much.I think the real issue is that when a plugin like this media player starts, it starts at full volume. I think web designers are a bit lackadaisical somtimes.

Glad you like it, thankyou for leaving a comment.Actually your thoughts are on the right track.Still using 2 magnets, but, if the device had had two hall-effect sensors inside set at 90 Degrees to each other (measuring the same plane). Then you would be able to use the more accurate areas of each sensor to get a full 360.I think this will be what's inside the more expensive devices.

Thankyou for leaving a comment, I am glad you like it.I think it only works because I have got the magnetic flux to flow straight through the sensor.

I love it.This is a good example of: *Slap my self in the face*, "why did I not do that on that project I am working on"

There cheap haha.This was my starting point. Start simple and work up. (It's all a learning curve)I'm going to do another tool with two hall-effect sensors next. :)OOOh you have a TI99.This was my claim to fame back then. See pictures.

Thank you for showing.Makes me feel good when someone does one of my Instructables.Tim

Nice.Don't forget the underside and make the pins with the thin bits.There is a "Go Big Challenge" contest.Have you entered it?

Nice job.Anyone who watches Bobs Bergers will recognise those :)

Nice work, but please, turn down the noise in the video.

Thankyou for your time and reply.

I like it.May I suggest you also cut small pieces of plain card stock to cover the corrugation holes inside the compartments.You then will be able to store small items like resistors without loosing them into the gaps in the corrugation.

I do have another question.I have several Lasers of different wattage, I found that the larger ones I have don't have a square light source, they are rectangular, does that model you have have a square light source?I ask, because the only way to find out, is to ask people. When you look at the advertised specifications, when looking for a laser, this is not something they include.I find the ones with rectangular light sources cut better in one axis that the other. This makes it difficult to find a good cutting speed with card stock.

Isn't that listed in the supplies section? :)

Nice demonstration.Have you tried replacing one bulb with a wire to represent zero resistance at a point?

Lovely, nice and compact design.

Fantastic.Love the working features.

I have updated Step 23 and Zip file.I have Re-Named thing accordingly.

Hi, good question.All I can say is I'm a Yorkshire Man, very tight with cash HaHa, also I have limited funds, so it is done as cheap as I could find.I have tried to put Links to eBay for every thing in the "Supplies" section. I get most of my stuff from China, I don't mind the wait.Not knowing where people are located, I though the links are the best way for people to find prices of each item.If you have an eBay account. You use the links and put things in your basket, you should get a good idea of the cost.You can empty your basket at the end of this exercise.Depending on where people are located, there will be different postage and Tax involved.There is also the matter of, if you by branded items or not.

Nice.Here is an idea for you to try.Because the surface mount LEDs only shine light in one direction.Try placing some glass marbles (opaque beeds) on each one to defuse the light in all directions.Just an idea.

That's a good idea, I think if I do more work on it, I will bear that in mind.I tried to keep it as simple as I could.I think once you know what temperatures you use to do stuff, you will be doing just one pre-heatThe PID settings should have handled it, but because I'm using a PTC element, there are complications.

Thanks I'm Glad you like it.I did try to explain what PTC was, perhaps you need to more research and experimentation to prove your findings. (I puled my hair out with this one)I assume you refer to: Volts is equal Resistance multiplied by Amperage.Watts (Power/Heat) is equal to Volts multiplied by Amperage.To alter the Power by increasing/decreasing the Voltage, one of the other two variables also has to stay constant.(The resistance)With a PTC you have no control of the Resistance.The Resistance changes as the temperature changes.So if you was to lower the Voltage, as the heat changes the Resistance changes, the circuit draws more current.I tried it with a Voltage Regulator first, you end up with a very hot regulator and a PTC at its rated temperature. Then I tried PWM. Then I did some r…

Thanks I'm Glad you like it.I did try to explain what PTC was, perhaps you need to more research and experimentation to prove your findings. (I puled my hair out with this one)I assume you refer to: Volts is equal Resistance multiplied by Amperage.Watts (Power/Heat) is equal to Volts multiplied by Amperage.To alter the Power by increasing/decreasing the Voltage, one of the other two variables also has to stay constant.(The resistance)With a PTC you have no control of the Resistance.The Resistance changes as the temperature changes.So if you was to lower the Voltage, as the heat changes the Resistance changes, the circuit draws more current.I tried it with a Voltage Regulator first, you end up with a very hot regulator and a PTC at its rated temperature. Then I tried PWM. Then I did some reading about PTC.I am sure a PTC rated at 300 watts will always want to take 300 Watts.If you look carefully at the top right the display in the videos, you will see that the PTC is only turned on for fractions of a second.This is why I suggest starting at lower temperature. The PTC takes forever to cooldown.

There is no need for paste.I think when I have used it a few times, I won't be pushing it down.When all is at the correct temperature and the solder on a PCB with SMD components melts. The SMD components actually float on the solder and position them selves to the correct position.

Thanks for leaving a comment.I suppose an earth wire could be connected to one of the Plate support screws.Not sure if it would interfere with the K-Type Temperature sensor, this is touching the Plate.The only true way is to have a metal case which I can't make.I have tried to make it as safe as I can with the resources I have.

I was thinking about saving that for another instructable some day.Is there anything in particular, with the Arduino architecture you want to know?

So glad it sorted it.This was the only section I could not check.I would have needed to create a second Account to test it out.Thank you for your feedback.